The next morning, we started on the trail around 9 am in sub-zero temperatures. This created a bit of a dicey experience as we had to hike under a cascading waterfall. The normally easily navigated trail became a skating rink. It was certainly beautiful, but man, it was slippery! Make sure to take the time to appreciate the amazing views of the gorge!

We made it to Tina’s Guesthouse by 11:30am. Here, we bought tickets for the bus ride home and continued hiking to the bottom of the gorge. Following a twisting and turning trail down to the bottom we enjoyed the place to ourselves. I love hiking during the off season exactly for this reason! Taking lots of time to explore and take pictures we returned to Tina’s by way of the sky ladder. Arriving by 1:30 we enjoyed a delicious lunch and too the opportunity to start planning the next part of our trip!

Cougar Creek to Exshaw

What a treat we had! How often can one say they literally walked out their front door and started an adventure? That is exactly what fellow guide and friend, Nathan Dhal, and I did. Committed to working Saturday morning at Ascent Physical Therapy I headed to Nathan’s place as soon as I was done. We made the final adjustments to our packs, threw in 2.5 days’ worth of food, and started walking. Neither one of us had hiked this route before, with no trail to follow, we set off with the mentality of, we will walk until we were tired. 6-7 hours later our grumbling stomachs and trembling legs told us it was time to stop. We hiked ~15 km and ~1100m of elevation from Cougar Creek past the Canadian Forks, up a drainage to Cougar and Carrot Creek Col, along a most spectacular Ridgeline, and descended to our campsite for the night. 

​All I have to say is WOW! What a beautiful day. We found ourselves camping next to a gorgeous alpine lake. No one else in sight, a light breeze, blue skies, and great conversation; I couldn’t have asked for a better place to lay my head for the night. Getting there was absolutely beautiful; vast alpine meadows, waterfalls, and blazing fall colours. Nothing helps bring out the sensation of freedom like wandering through the mountain side, no trail insight, and choosing your own path! There is so much out there to discover!!

​Where Alberta was having such a dry season, we were a touch nervous about accessing water; however, we were able to find a flowing stream at a horse camp at GR192 676. This however, was our last water source until we reached the lake. 

​The next day we left our campsite, ensuring there was no evidence of us left behind, and headed down the drainage. Originally sticking to skiers right we soon realized this was not the right route, before us was a massive drop off. The views were great however for scouting the upcoming section. Backtracking, and gaining skiers left side of the drainage we were able to follow a small game trail until it crossed another drainage. Here the trail disappeared. Deciding to go with gravity we headed downwards, hoping to find the game trail again. Sadly, this resulted in an hour detour as we had to regain the lost elevation and head up another 300m. As a word of advice, once you cross over the drainage, suck it up and just head up!! Working up a sweat, we coaxed our bodies up the hill. Our efforts were rewarded, we found a well-established horse trail, wahoo!!!!!

​The horse trail was in amazing condition! We skipped along at a rocket pace, soon finding ourselves at a small horse camp. Some concern started to rise as we had yet to find water since leaving the lake. We had expected to find water soon, but we were disappointed. Recognizing we had yet to reach the main horse camp, we followed the dry river bed looking for Guinn’s Camp GR227 727. Luck was on our side and the South Ghost River had WATER!!! Feeling the heat of the day, I took full advantage, rinsing the salt from my face. Refreshed and our water bottles filled to the brim Nathan and I continued our plod. 

The question was raised, could we make it out today? Nathan might not have known it, but I already had my answer!!
 
Prior to leaving we were told there would be another well-established horse trail showing us the way to Exshaw Col. There was certainly a trail, well-established…well…. I’ll leave that one up to you to decide. Wandering through the mountains we finally came to the drainage leading down from Exshaw Col. It was a little intimidating looking up at the slope. It seemed like a lot of elevation to gain. Satisfied that we were in the right spot, we started up. The terrain was too steep on either side of the drainage so we elected to head straight up it! A late lunch was enjoyed as we sat at the top of the Col admiring Exshaw off in the distance (~15km away). 

​Luck was on our side and we were able to find another animal trail leading us away from the Col towards the valley bottom. A bit of gymnastics was required as we worked our way through the mayhem of deadfall. Finally, we reached the point where the river widened and now we were faced with a 10km hike along a dry riverbed.

As the day continued I was reminded that I we had not crossed any water since leaving the horse camp. Would we find any? Or would we be forced to hike out tonight? As I eluded to earlier…I already knew what I wanted. With the sun beaming down on us and limited water grumpy Jenna started to make her debut. Wisely we chose shelter in the shade and a most delicious Nutella and peanut butter bagel was consumed. 

We were both relieved to reach the junction with Fable creek and find out that the information we gathered before the trip was indeed correct. Just a short distance past the creek we found running water! Oh, how delicious fresh mountain water is!! Taking advantage of the freshness, we sat here for quite a while. The decision needed to be made, continue or stay put? We had been hiking for 8 hours by this point, but the idea of a fresh meal and a warm shower spoke to us like the sirens. Tying up our laces and putting our packs back on, we were up and on our way. 

​After many pointless jokes, and silly stories, it seemed like an eternity went by, finally we reached the damn and knew HWY 1a was just around the corner. Having arranged for a ride to pick us up the following evening we stood alongside the HWY and stuck out our thumbs. Not 10min later we were happily climbing into a vehicle that would shuttle us back to Canmore.

This trip was absolutely spectacular, amazingly beautiful scenery, awesome route finding, simplicity of just walking out ones’ front door, and great company. I can’t wait to get out and explore this area again!

The late snowpack left us changing our plans at the last minute. Originally we planned to explore a campground in Yoho National Park, but the road had yet to open. Sometimes the hardest thing with planning a trip is having the flexibility to change plans and let go of expectations.

Wanting to stay at a lower elevation we strapped on our backpacks and headed for Larry's camp (Jo9). At first glance Larry's Camp looks like it would be a zoo to get to, taking you through the throngs of tourists discovering the beauty of the Johnston Canyon. We however, were able to avoid the masses and take a side trail avoiding the canyon all together! Based on the number of cars parked alongside the road we were grateful for this opportunity. 

The side trail, Moose Meadows, is a mixture of an old road bed and a hiking trail. We were grateful that it was not raining as a various sections of the trail were muddy and swampy. Bug spray was needed!

Arriving at the Ink Pots we were spoiled with all the colour. It was too beautiful to simply pass by so we took the time to enjoyed it and explore. 

Continuing through the meadows past the Ink Pots and across the river. The trail ducts back into the forest. Some elevation remained to be gained, but only 3km further we came across our home for the night. Many of the ladies in the group hadn't camped in 10+ years and I was stoked to provide an opportunity for them to learn and re-experience it. After setting up camp we came together for a map and compass lesson and then it was their turn to lead the way. Heading off on an adventure the ladies were awesome, they found the right trail, identified various mountains around us, and even predicted how long it would take us to hike a short section! I was impressed!

After some laughter, games where we tried to identify a tree by touch only, and many photo opportunities our stomachs started to rumble. Armed with two different types of stoves the ladies stepped up to learn how they functioned. We ate like Kings...or should I say Queens. Soup for an appetizer, vegetable curry for the main, and vanilla pudding over cookies for desert. We did not go to bed hungry! 

That night some of us found out that the temperature rating on a sleeping bag is not always accurate. The desire to get up and perform pushups to stay warm was ignored and instead all the positive things were focused on..."there are no spiders on me". Despite the lack of sleep, in the morning everyone had a smile upon their face with a coffee in hand. Some sleepy heads even had coffee in "bed".  

With caffeine surging through our veins we headed off in search of a Warden's Cabin. After hiking for 45min towards Luellen Lake we decided it was time to turn around, pack up our stuff, and head back to reality. The sun was bright and the skies were blue. We really couldn't have asked for a better weekend! Thanks so much, Ladies for joining me on this awesome trip. For those continuing on to the West Coast Trail, I know you will rock it! I can't wait to get out with you all again!

Cars flying around me on 'the wrong side of the road', darkness covering the city streets, dust collecting in my lungs, my bed calling my name; my sleep deprived brain raced as it tried to process everything. 27 hours ago I stepped on a plane in Calgary, AB, now I found myself, on the opposite side of the world, in Kathmandu, Nepal. 

This was my first trip outside of North America and I must admit, I was feeling a little overwhelmed. Actually, "little" is an understatement. A LOT overwhelmed. In the past I've taken pride in my ability to throw myself into something new and flourish. This was the first time I admitted to myself, and others around me, that I was struggling. Wow! That was hard to do! With this admission came a freedom to experience my surroundings and not slog through it. I was in Nepal and I wanted to remember it, not just get through it. 

My friend, Jo, had been in Nepal for the past 7 weeks conducting a study for her Masters in Public Health. She was a gem, picking me up at the airport and being patient with me as I adjusted to the new time zone. After spending a day exploring the labyrinth of Kathmandu we met our guide, Jay, and set out on a 6 hour (125km) jeep ride to Arughat. The Jeep was the most expensive part of the trip, costing $165USD. There is also a local bus. With our tight schedule we chose reliability and convenience over saving money. Arriving in Soti Khola the local buses were not running. A government strike was on and no one could get petrol. Our jeep couldn't take us the final leg so we chartered a vehicle for 4000ru. What we didn't realize was that this "vehicle" WAS the local bus. WE CHARTERED THE LOCAL BUS! I have never been so embarrassed of my privilege (and my poor decision making). The locals were waving, trying to flag it down, and we drove right by them. Their faces covered with confusion; why was the bus was not stopping? I wanted to hide! It was not fun in the least, but it was a good learning experience. Getting off the bus Jo and I both looked at Jay and said...we are never doing that again!

Eight hours in, our first day was complete. My bum was sore even though I had yet to take a single step on a trail. For those familiar with the Canmore area, the roads were like driving into the Ghost Wilderness Area, an amusement park ride of it's own! 

That night the heavens opened and it POURED! Rain here meant more snow up high. Before I hopped on the plane I checked the weather forecast for Manaslu and it showed a massive low pressure system moving in, it was here!

In the morning the trail was impressively dry. Hiking along a road for an hour we were finally on the "trail". Going into this trip I imagined the trail to be similar to the ones here in Canada, surrounded by wilderness, no people, and having a feeling of being cut off from the world. I was a bit off. The Manaslu trek follows the Buri Gandaki River passing through many villages along the way. This trail is essentially like the Trans Canada highway, connecting communities and people together, except the semi trucks are mules and everyone is hiking. The villages varied in size, from one family to the largest being Samagaon, with a population of ~700 people. Along the way we witnessed an odd paradox; a lot of the villages have power, wifi, cell service, and some have satellite TV, but they don't have clean drinking water and their houses are not sealed to the elements. My brain really struggled with this. The trek has yet to become popular and therefore has kept some of it's pristine feel. We were all surprised with the amount of new infrastructure being built. My recommendation is...if you want to complete this trek, do it sooner than later. It is gaining momentum

Right off the start we realized, in true Jenna fashion, we were travelling faster than we planned. It was also when our guide started to question what he got himself into. We hiked past Khorlabeshi, opting to continue on to Tatopani. We quickly discovered why it is called Tatopani. In nepalese tato = hot, pani = water. There is a hot springs here!!! Jo swore she would not hike in shorts to respect local customs; later we found ourselves in our underwear, bathing in the hot springs. I highly recommend spending the night here! There were three different buildings to choose from. It seems that more and more accommodations are being built. 

I love waking up to the birds singing, it brings me such joy. Sleeping in buildings that were open to the air made it easier to hear their beautiful song. Meeting an American couple, Kit and Frankie, in Tatopani we continued on as a group. Today we we had a surprise! We met Jay's brother! Jay is from the Village of Uhiya and his brother has wonderful accommodations in Dobhan. It was fascinating to watch them interact. 4 years had past since they last saw one another. Excitement radiated from them as they embraced in a hug. ​Minutes passed and Jay wanted to keep the group moving. They said their goodbyes.

Arriving in Jagat we officially entered the Manaslu Conservation Area. Jay wandered off to find the check point and show our permits. To hike this route we needed three different permits: Manaslu Conservation Area permit (you need a guide to attain this), TIMS card (Trekker Information Management System), and finally the Annapurna Conservation Area permit. All said, the permits cost around $150USD. The MCAP is $50USD for the first week and $7 USD/day afterwards. TIMS is $25USD for 15days. ACAP is  also $25 USD. 

Continuing on we met more and more people retreating; unable to cross Larkya La pass. We had yet to hit snow and hoped the good weather would hold out. That night we decided to crash in the village of Philim. It was a busy place, a common stopping point for those making their way back down. If you want a quieter experience, there are accommodations just before town. Another quiet option is on the way out of town, you'll find little cabins on the left.  ​

Nervous that we may miss our opportunity to see Manaslu; we chose to hike the same itinerary mentioned in the blogs I scoffed at. Asking Jay to see if we could have breakfast at 6:30am he looked at me in disbelief and replied with, 7am. Settling on the compromised Jo and I headed to bed. Tonight our accommodations were completely booked. The bottle neck of hikers were increasing the demand. 

We reached Lho in only 3 hours. To our surprise, Lho had an amazing amount of stuff to buy; hats, gloves, microspikes, gators, they had it all...at a price. Jay asked if we wanted to stop for lunch. There was no doubt in either of our minds. We were continuing on without lunch (lunch usually took 1.5hrs). Jo and I both packed bars to eat along the way, Jay had none. The kitchen whipped up tibetan bread, he swallowed it hole, and we continued onwards. 

By this time the sun was beating down on us. The snow had softened and we were post holing...or should I say, Jay was post holing...up to his mid thigh. Jo and I had the luxury of following his steps. They told us in Lho that the village of Shyala remained closed for the season. Jay was so excited when we found people there upon our arrival. "Stay here?" He asked. Nope...while the views were amazing in Shyala; Samagaon was our goal. Based on views alone I recommend staying at Shyala over Lho.

Finally, Samagaon comes into view. It stays in view...and seems to get further away. The final 45min into Samagaon were the longest of the entire trip! Arriving at the hotel we devoured a very late lunch. ​

The next day was a true rest day. We accomplished our goal and saw spectacular views of Manaslu. Now we could sit back and enjoy the view. That's what Jo did. With energy to burn, I couldn't sit still, and proceeded to shovel off the deck and help locals clear out their quad. A row of old men formed across the way as they watched me work. At least I provided them with ample entertainment. Some of the other trekkers ventured up to the Gompa. We attempted to make our way to Manaslu Basecamp but no one had been there yet this season and there was too much snow. After spending 2 hours post holing I was frustrated and started heading back. 

That night everyone was in planning mode, discussing various options! Everyone was trying to decide if it was worth hiking further north to Samdo and attempting the pass as a group. Jo and I decided that it the weather was good in the morning we would continue on to Samdo, if it was snowing, we'd go down. 

Waking at 5am, the skies were grey. It wasn't snowing so we stuck to our previous decision and started hiking. An hour in the snow started to fly. Both Jo and I had surpassed our comfort zones and elected to return to Samagaon. On the way back we expected to meet some of the other groups, but we saw no one! Returning to our hotel everyone was gathered outside debating if they would continue. Jo and I voiced that we were heading down. ​

It was interesting to witness the change in my demeanour once we turned around. For the entire trip we were heading into the unknown. Would we make it through the pass? That was a question we could not answer. As a person who likes to plan I found it hard to give in to that unknown and enjoy where I was. Once we turned around I felt a breath of fresh air. The condition of the pass was no longer a concern, I felt my body and my mind relax. I was finally present on the trail, no longer stuck in 'what if'. The next couples days were my most favourite as I found joy being more playful. Jay, no longer able to keep up, gave up on staying ahead of us. I skipped along, raising my arms into the wind, and enjoyed going at the pace that my body wanted. Many songs were sung and sceneries admired, but mostly, I was looking forward to coming home. Never have I felt so grateful to have my friends and family in my life, and to live in the beautiful wilderness of Canada.

For not falling asleep and for sticking with the entire post... You.   Are.   Rewarded.   With...
...more info...just what you wanted, right? You were probably expecting something free...jokes on you! :)

Below is our itinerary including: morning temperatures, elevation changes, and villages we stayed in. If you have any questions please reach out. I'd be more than happy to help you out! That's what travelling is all about, right?

If you are looking for more information on the cost of the trip or other itinerary options you can check out these two blog posts by NEST adventures.

What an amazing weekend! I put in a big request with Mother Nature and we were rewarded with a spectacular trip! This weekend was the women's introduction to backpacking course and I hiked up to Taylor Lake with three lovely ladies. Let me tell you, they were absolute troopers!!! Two of them had never backpacked before, and they still showed up with potential snow in the forecast! Well done ladies. 

Friday night we met in Canmore, went over what to pack and how to pack it, chatted about different weather sites, and even touched on map orientation! Phew...it was a busy night but we got it all covered! Afterwards the ladies were able to sit back and relax in their room at Solara Resort and Spa. 

Getting to the trailhead packs were adjusted and hiking boots were put on. Hiking ~7km and 600m of elevation we arrived at the perfect time…Lunch! What a place to sit and watch the world go by! Flat and durable spots were found and tents were pitched. After laying out our sleeping bags and thermarests the map was poured over and a route was chosen to a tarn at the base of Panorama Ridge. With the completion of a group discussion the ladies headed off in the right direction and soon we were upon the tarn. Well done ladies! Watch out world, these ladies are map pros!

​That evening everyone took a turn at making supper. We were treated to testing out two different types of stoves and no eyebrows were singed with lighting them! Appetites were smaller than anticipated, allowing me to live up my trail name and devouring the remaining pad thai. Jackie, however, would fight me for the remaining desert. Did you know that she only has a sense of smell for chocolate?

​After lessons on layering and sleeping bags everyone enjoyed a toasty warm night sleep. We couldn’t have planned it any better and just as we retired for the evening we were lulled to sleep by the pitter-patter of rain. I love sleeping in my tent! It is like an old friend!
 
The next morning everyone enjoyed a wakeup call of coffee. Before heading back to our car the ladies took me over to O’Brien Lake. I have hiked up here a couple times this summer and the beauty never ceases to amaze me. WOW, is really all I have to say! 

​What a fantastic trip! These ladies were truly amazing! Thank you so much for joining me on such a great adventure!

Banff Highline
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Distance: ~110km
Date: August 7 - August 14, 2016
Permit Info: All campgrounds, except for Og Lake and Lake Magog, can be booked through Parks Canada. Lake Og and Magog are can be booked through BC parks
Start: Vista Lake Trailhead
Finish: Mount Shark

7 days and ~110km later, our group was successful at seeing some of the most beautiful scenery the Canadian Rockies have to offer. Starting off at Vista Lake on HWY 93s and finishing at Mount Shark on Spray Lakes Road we experienced rain, random water-dwelling red bugs, grizzles, laughter and even some tears. Each morning, this group continued to impress me as they worked together to accomplish such an amazing trek. 

~15km, 1100m elevation gain, 830m elevation loss
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8am all 9 of us piled into the van. Conversations were plentiful as everyone buzzed with anticipation. The weather forecast was not looking promising; however, everyone had smiles beaming across their face. Today was a bit of a grind, following the first half of 'the tour of the four lakes', we gained 1100m in elevation, crossing Arnica Ridge and Gibbons Pass. The wildflowers were in full bloom and the low lying clouds gave a intimate feel. Around 5pm we strolled into Shadow lake campground with tired legs, but with a sense of accomplishment! We pitched our spacious tents, and the guests explored the area, while myself and Natalie started on supper. The cooking area is quite a distance from the campground and equipped with a bear hang. The water source is a 'tap' and can be found behind the tent platform closest to Shadow Lake Lodge. 

~15km, 500m elevation gain, 300m elevation loss

Waking early, the clock read 5:55am. Getting an early start to the day would be the theme for this trek. Everyone was an early riser...well...as long as they had their 6L of coffee in the morning!
One of my favourite parts of getting up early is the stillness of the world. Everything is quiet and calm, waiting for the day to come. Such a great time to sit and be present!
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After enjoying a bowl full of mueslix we set off on our way. Soon we arrived at Shadow Lake. The reflection on the water was breath taking. Fish could be seen swimming through the water while the surface created the perfect reflection. Group photos were taken to help keep this memory fresh. 

Gaining more elevation we reached yet another lake, Haiduk Lake. We sat in the sun and ate our lunch while others braved the cool waters and went for a heart pumping dip. 
Reaching Whistling Pass, our high point for the day, we were treated to views of Storm Mountain (where we started the day before) and Healy Pass (where we were headed tomorrow). Finally, our legs could relax knowing we only had to go down!

Lots of campsites were found at Egypt Lake, allowing us to keep our group together, and a beautiful flowing stream served as our water source. Some ventured off to explore the lake, resulting in a sprinting session to try and beat the rain to set up tents before everything became soaked. I believe a new world record was set for the fastest km ran in sandals!
Dinner was ate under the comfort of a tarp and fetching water was negotiated for dish duty. Isn't it amazing how it always decides to hail when one goes to fetch water?!

~19km, 630m elevation gain, 350m elevation loss

Today was a bit of a push! 19km to hike and a food drop to collect. Yamnuska, the organizing company for this trip, provided two food drops along the trail. One at Sunshine Village Ski Hill and the other at Assiniboine Lodge. We were quite grateful as it kept our packs light with only 2.5 days of food in our pack at one time. 

Lots of bear evidence was seen along the trail as we hiked through vast alpine meadows. Finding ourselves tip toeing along the Alberta - British Columbia border we travelled through Simpson Pass before  climbing to the top of Wawa ridge overlooking Sunshine Ski Hill. Lunch was ate, whisky was drank, and packs were reloaded with our new food...don't worry the cucumber came along too! 
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The newly coffee (and alcohol) fuelled hikers resulted in a sprint away from Sunshine onwards to Howard Douglas. Arriving we found a campground in need of a little TLC; tent platforms were replaced with puddles, creating a scavenger hunt for flat dry land. Again, we found ourselves cooking beneath a tarp and luck would have it that someone had left their tarp there already set up!!

~17km, 400m elevation gain, 600m elevation loss

Today we hiked through a bear's living room. More meadows lead us to Citadel Pass and what a surprise we had! Our group was not quiet, usually singing at the top of our lungs. This morning I was grateful for the noise! As we approached Citadel Pass a giant grizzly dashed across the meadow and out of sight. Three birds continued to give it chase and eventually we were treated to another glimpse of this beautiful animal as it crested a ridge. Needless to say the singing continued for the rest of the day!

Not long after seeing the bear we started the long descent into the Golden Valley and the unique 'Valley of the Rocks'. What a spectacular part of the trail. Huge vistas were seen as we side hilled along the trail. It was my favourite section of the trip. Finally as the day came to a close we gently ascended towards Og Lake campground. Arriving we found that all the tent platforms were taken. Finding flat space wherever we could our group set up tents and supper was made. Some decided to jump into the lake...this however, created some issues. It appeared that little red critters were living in the silt at the bottom of the lake. With swimming the silt was disturbed and little red critters were EVERYWHERE!! Given that we only had drops to treat our water, we no longer had a suitable water source!!  

That night Enough water for drinking was boiled and we decided to get up the next morning WITHOUT coffee and hike the 7km to Magog Lake. Once there we would sit back and enjoy a hot breakfast and yes...over 6L of coffee :)

~7km, 120m elevation gain

The group got up without coffee, however, a competitive nature and adrenaline fuelled them! The RACE WAS ON!!!

With Og Lake campground well over capacity and the number of available campsites at Magog Lake unknown, people were chompin' at the bit! I stayed at the back and Natalie took off with the faster group to claim campsites. It turned out that we were not the only group to decide to get an early start and try to beat the masses. Soon another group of four were hot on our heels, in pursuit of the best tent platforms. Stepping off to the side they quickly passed us gaining on the faster part of our group. From this moment all I was told was that the faster hikers in our group took off like a bullet and basically ran the entire way to the campground. It was like a Tour De France sprint for the finish!! 

The rest of the day everyone recovered from the race, lazing around in their tents, and exploring along the waters edge. To restore our glycogen we treated ourselves to cake and tea and Assiniboine Lodge. Did I mention they had cake??? Man, it was GOOD!!!

Today we were spoiled! Not needing to pack up our tents we were able to sleep in and enjoy the morning. People were starting to feel the accumulative effect of our big days so we decided to break into two different groups. Nathalie took one group and toured around the different lakes in the area, while I took another group to the Nublet. After taking only 1.5hours to reach our high point we decided that we wanted more of a challenge and headed over to check out the views on Chucks Ridge. 
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The day started with clear blue skies but as we descended from Chucks Ridge clouds started rolling in. We decided to stick to our plan of checking out the cliff jumping along the shores of Lake Magog, but by the time we reached the rocks only two of us still had the courage. It is amazing how a cliff doesn't seem that high until you stand peering over the edge!!!

~26km, 280m elevation gain, 690m elevation loss

The Milky Way and meteor showers were todays highlights. Waking at 4am we were treated to a full show. Shooting stars streaked across the dark sky and some of us were able to see the Milk Way for the first time...impressive! Hiking through the darkness we were able to reach Wonder Pass to watch the sun rise, highlighting the mountain peaks in hues of pink and red. What a majestic sight!

Finally around 9am we were rewarded for our early start as we sat down and rested our bodies eating a warm breakfast and yet again...COFFEE!!! I have never had a group that enjoyed their coffee as much as these guys!

This new found energy carried them through the wide forested trail as we continued past Bryant Creek and onwards to Mount Shark. Some other hikers were not thrilled to hear Christmas carols being sung at the top of our lungs, but it kept us entertained on the seemingly never ending trail. 

Luck would have it and the motivation of hot showers (SOME of us hadn't showered for 7days) and clean clothes kept us moving at a lightning pace, meeting our van a full hour ahead of schedule. 

It was a wonderful trip! Beautiful scenery coupled with an amazing group. Physical endurance was pushed but everyone held their own and thoroughly impressed me. I can't wait to guide this trek again! Thanks Yamnuska for organizing the trip and thank you to: Elizabeth, Jo, Brooke, Cintia, John, Rachel, and Yukako for signing up for this adventure! And last but not least, thank you Nathalie for your amazing help on this trek! I'd guide with you again any day!!!

This trail lives up to all of the hype! Located atop mountain ridges in Jasper National Park, AB it belongs on everyone's to do list! A client from Kelowna, Ian, and I hiked the trail from south to north, pushing our physical limits along the way.  

We were lucky to start our trip on a Sunday. Two days of rain preceded us, leaving grumpy hikers and a lot of mud in its wake. We however, had glorious sunshine and smiles plastered across our faces. We were off to a good start!

Leaving the trailhead by Maligne Lake at 9am Ian impressed me. In preparation for this trip he had gone on a number of day hikes with a 40lb pack. His training was quite evident as we easily cruised along the mud laden trail. In no time, we reached the second campground, little shovel. This campground can't be missed as the trail passes right through it. Mosquitos had claimed this area as their territory so we quickly refilled our water bottles, ate a handful of trail mix, and continued on our way before the mosquitoes carried us away!

By this point we had already climbed 410m in elevation, along 8.5km, and still had 140m of elevation left to go before reaching little shovel pass. As we gained elevation the trail dried out and the views continued to amaze us. White ptarmigan birds, hoary marmots, and pikas were seen and heard along the way.

Reaching snowbowl campground around 1pm with lots of energy to spare, Ian requested that we continue on to curator. Having no objection, we finished our lunch, packed our bags and headed onwards. Climbing another 220m, in elevation, we found ourselves hiking through beautiful alpine meadows. Waterfalls spilled over cliff bands, pockets of snow laid in our path, and expansive views tantalized our senses. You couldn't help but feel connected to this grand landscape. 

Spending the night at Curator Campground we woke early to tackle the infamous 'Notch.' The Notch is a snow covered pass where you climb 300m in 2km. Many fear inducing stories have been told about this pass. Ian, however, was not phased and tackled it like a champ!

Blue bird skies were seen all around as we hiked along the maligne ridge. This is truly why the skyline is a 360deg view of the world. Snow capped mountains were seen in all directions! (From an emergency perspective; along this ridge is one of the only locations on the skyline trail that you can get cell reception). Descending off the ridge we hiked towards Tekarra campground. I would recommend not staying at this campground. It left us wanting. Now at a lower elevation the mosquitos and mud returned in full force! A lot of the tent platforms were full of mud and rounded; not the ideal place for a restful sleep!

18km into our day we finally reached Signal campground. This is a great campground to stay your last night on the trail. It allows you to take advantage of the lookout just south of the campground, but be prepared for the mosquitos. The temptation of a hot shower and a bed to sleep in proved too great of a temptation. We decided to push on and finish off the last 8km. In total it was a 25km day! WOW! What an undertaking! 

Although we finished the trail sooner than we anticipated, it was a great trip with lots of time to pause and enjoy our surroundings. It truly was a beautiful trail. Ian and I both were left with the desire to hike the trail again! Until the next trip!

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 4tsp Yellow curry powder 
• 2tsp Granulated onion
• 6tbs Butter

    

• 2 handful Raisins
• 4 handful Cashews  
• 1cup Dried peas  
• 6tbs Coconut cream powder
• 2 Sugar packet
• 10oz Boil-in-bag basmati 

Serves 4

Backpacking is great way to recharge; move your body and lighten your soul. Finding the balance between pack weight and delicious food is a common challenge. One needs to ensure they have enough to eat and drink without packing so much that your back gives out. 

Read on for backcountry tried and tested meal-planning advice and delicious camp recipes.

Eat Gourmet Day One

If you're going into the backcountry for several days, eat heavier, more perishable items for the first day or two. Go gourmet the first night with fresh veggies, bread, and even meat. Freeze the meat ahead of time, it will defrost in your pack during the day. Five days in, your left shoe tastes good; enjoy the fresh stuff while you can! ​

Get Dehydrating

Dehydrated food is a valuable weight and FUEL saver for backpackers; when it's time to eat, just boil water and stir. Precooked, dehydrated foods are not only lightweight, but also simple to prep. The decreased cooking time conserves fuel, requiring you to carry LESS. Stores such as Mountain Equipment Co-op, or your local outdoor store, sell great packaged meals. I recommend, for adventurers who love food, consider investing in a dehydrator. The options are endless. You can take any recipe you love at home and adapt it for the trail. In preparation for the Appalachian Trail I made 6 months of dehydrated food, making 14 different recipes for supper. Precooked and dehydrated vegetables, fruits, ground meats such as beef or chicken, sauces, and noodles were the main ingredients. To make it easier to determine portions you can place entire meals in the dehydrator. Once dehydrated, use the nutritional information to break the recipe into individual serving sizes. ​

Substitute And Purge Excess
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When you're going backcountry, you have to carry OUT everything you carry in, so weight and garbage are big challenges.  When planning a backpacking menu, start off with meals that you like to make at home. Add and substitute ingredients that will be quick cooking, lighter, or more compact. For example, Mr Noodles instead of spaghetti; foil packets instead of cans of tuna; couscous and angel-hair pasta are also great options. Spend the time to nix excess packaging. Never carry tin cans, combine ingredients for one meal into a single ziplock, or remove excess cardboard and plastic. It is amazing how much extra packaging is out there. Purging it at home will save valuable ounces on the trail. ​